At the moment i am no longer breeding leaftailed geckos, but i am still keeping the sikorae and ebenaui care sheets on my website for anyone who needs references. 

Geckos Care Sheet   

A ten gallon aquarium can easily house 1 Leopard gecko, a trio can be comfortably housed in a 25gallon. Leopard geckos require a temperature variant cage, on the “warm” side the temperature should be between 87-85 degrees Fahrenheit and on the “cool” side 75-77 degrees Fahrenheit, this can be achieved either by a heat pad or a heat lamp. A hide must be provided as leopard geckos are nocturnal and get stressed out by to much exposure, a hide can be composed of something as simple as a margarine container with a hole cut in the side, this should be kept at the “cool” side.

Many different types of substrate can be used, for a baby or juvenile leopard gecko I recommend paper towel or reptile carpet, this is to prevent impaction caused by eating substrate, with a full grown (over 35grams) leopard gecko can be housed on paper towel, reptile carpet, play sand (make sure there is not metal in the sand) or calci-sand (a prepackaged reptile safe substrate, can be found at may pet stores) can be used also a prepackaged reptile bark mixture (also can be found a most pet stores) could also be used. If you do choose to keep your leopard gecko on anything other than reptile carpet or paper towel, it is important to check your gecko’s health frequently, a drop in weight or activity can be a sign of sickness or impaction. A small bowl of calcium powder and a water dish should be available at all times, chlorine must be removed from the water, this is because reptiles can not get rid of toxins the way we do so over time your gecko can get a toxic amount of chlorine in it’s system. For this you can use an aquarium de-chlorinator or one specialized for reptile use.  

One more necessity is a humidity hide, this is to increase humidity when you gecko needs it mostly for shedding, it is easily made. Take a small tupper ware container and cut a 2 inch by 2 inch hole in the lid, fill about half full with moist moss or paper towel, keep this on your “warm” side, it should make it a little “sauna”, and you gecko will go in there when they need to. If you are breeding leopard geckos, this can also be used as a laying box.

Other than that it is about decoration, it is all up to you, you can use fake plants, real plants (always make sure they aren’t poisonous and have not been sprayed with any pesticides or herbicides.) logs, rocks, caves, etc. most pet stores have these item readily available. (Always make sure if you take items from the wild they are clean thoroughly with bleach and rinsed well, or baked or boiled, to kill any bugs or bacteria)

Lastly food, leopard geckos are insectivores they eat insects, pet stores have many different safe insects readily available for different reptiles, crickets are usually a staple, but the more varied the diet the better. The size of food should be about the size of between the gecko’s eyes, you can go slightly bigger but this is the best way to judge the size. The amount of food will vary from gecko to gecko, always let your animal eat their fill, once you have fed them a few time you will find out their ideal amount. Some adult Leopard Geckos will enjoy an occasional pinkie mouse, these should be given sparingly because they are very high in fat, they are very good for egg laying females to get their weight up.

Keep in mind this is just basic care, and should not be your only source of information. There are many great Leopard Gecko keeping books out there, here are a few of my favorites:

Reptile Keeper’s Guides – Leopard Geckos by R.D and Patricia Bartlet, The Leopard Gecko by Lyle Puente, The Guide to Owning a Leopard Gecko by Ray Hunzinker.

Mossy Leaf-Tailed Gecko Care Sheet
Uroplatus Sikorae

A pair of Sikorae can be housed in a minimum enclosure size of 20 gallons. A 30-gallon long is much more comfortable, or a 30-gallon extra high can be used and can hold a trio. I do not suggest housing more than 3 at one time, as it allows for disputes between animals. I strongly recommend placing your gecko in a naturalistic vivarium. I feel this not only helps the gecko feel a little more at home, but it also helps maintain higher humidity. Always use a screen top rather than an all glass top to keep up circulation. As a general rule, males shouldn’t be housed together, but some have had success keeping them in colonies of 2 pairs (2 males 2 females). 

One great thing about these geckos is that they do not require a heat source unless your house is exceedingly cold. Temperatures should be 72-78 during the day, and 68-72 at night. Temperatures should NOT exceed 80 degrees for any extended period of time. Humidity should be 75%+. This can be done by keeping a moist substrate and misting the cage 2-3 times daily.

There are numerous different substrates available, including commercial “reptile” substrates. I would not recommend using pine or aspen shavings for these reptiles, and cedar should never be used as it gives of fumes that are toxic to reptiles. I would recommend coconut fiber, coconut husk, peat moss, any sort of reptile or gardening store moss (make sure it has not been treated with any insecticides or herbicides), and potting soil are all very good substrates. They keep in humidity well and are safe if ingested and will not hurt the nose of a Sikorae when hunting.

Plants, branches and vines are all great things to add in the cage (please make sure any branches taken from outside have been clean thoroughly with bleach and rinsed well, or baked or boiled, to kill any bugs or bacteria). Plants can be purchased from any gardening store, just make sure they can live in high humidity, they are not poisonous (they could get ingested involuntarily while hunting) and that they have not been treated with any pesticides or herbicides. Branches are a necessity in any Uroplatus cage. Cork bark flats look beautiful and are very useful as well. It serves as resting spots during the day, places to wait for ambushing crickets and as an egg laying spot.

 UVB lighting has always been a controversy between Uroplatus keepers. Some people think they do not need it because they are nocturnal, others say they are exposed to UVB rays in the wild while sleeping on tree trunks during the day. I think it may not be absolutely necessary, but it couldn’t hurt. UVB certainly can’t be detrimental, so I use it. If anything it will be beneficial to the plant life.

 The size of food should be about the size of between the gecko’s eyes, you can go slightly bigger but this is the best way to judge the size. Crickets are hardy, cheap and nutritious.  Others feed mealworms, silkworms, and moths. They don’t seem to pay much attention to slow moving prey, quick moving prey like crickets catch their eyes immediately though. To get the maximum nutritional value out of the crickets, gut load them with a high protein and high calcium diet of some sort. Some people use vegetables, I use a premixed “Cricket Diet” I get from my cricket supplier, but it can be purchased at most pet stores. They should be dusted at least every other day with calcium powder, such as “Rep-Cal” or “Miner-All”, “Herptivite”. There are also mixes called “cricket dust” these would also work. Chlorine must be removed from the water, this is because reptiles can not get rid of toxins the way we do so over time your gecko can get a toxic amount of chlorine in its system. For this you can use an aquarium de-chlorinator or one specialized for reptile use.

Keep in mind this is just basic care, and should not be your only source of information

Spear Point Leaf-Tailed Gecko Care Sheet

Uroplatus Ebenaui

Anywhere from one individual to a trio of these geckos can be kept in a 10 gallon. Personally, I prefer going with slightly larger tanks, as these are arboreal animals and will climb around at night on the cage furnishings you provide I keep a trio in a 25 gallon aquarium. I strongly recommend placing your gecko in a naturalistic vivarium. I feel this not only helps the gecko feel a little more at home, but it also helps maintain higher humidity. A screen top is essential for proper ventilation. As a general rule, males shouldn’t be housed together, but some have had success keeping them in colonies of 2 pairs (2 males 2 females).

One great thing about these geckos is that they do not require a heat source unless your house is exceedingly cold. Temperatures should be 75-72 degrees in the day time and 68-65 degrees in the evening. Humidity should be 75%+. This can be done by keeping a moist substrate and misting the cage 2-3 times daily.

UVB lighting has always been a controversy between Uroplatus keepers. Some people think they do not need it because they are nocturnal, others say they are exposed to UVB rays in the wild while sleeping on tree trunks during the day. I think it may not be absolutely necessary, but it couldn’t hurt. UVB certainly can’t be detrimental, so I use it. If anything it will be beneficial to the plant life.

There are numerous different substrates available, including commercial “reptile” substrates. I would not recommend using pine or aspen shavings for these reptiles, and cedar should never be used as it gives of fumes that are toxic to reptiles. I would recommend coconut fiber, coconut husk, peat moss, any sort of reptile or gardening store moss (make sure it has not been treated with any insecticides or herbicides), and potting soil are all very good substrates. They keep in humidity well and are safe if ingested and will not hurt the nose of an Ebenaui when hunting. Dead leaves are an acceptable addition to the floor of the cage, as females tend to prefer to lay their eggs beneath clumps of dead leaves. However, excessive use of leaf litter is going to give you more ground to cover when looking for eggs, and also hides prey.

Plants, branches and vines are all great things to add in the cage (please make sure any branches taken from outside have been clean thoroughly with bleach and rinsed well, or baked or boiled, to kill any bugs or bacteria). Plants can be purchased from any gardening store, just make sure they can live in high humidity, they are not poisonous (they could get ingested involuntarily while hunting) and that they have not been treated with any pesticides or herbicides. Branches are a necessity in any Uroplatus cage. Cork bark flats look beautiful and are very useful as well. It serves as resting spots during the day, places to wait for ambushing crickets and as an egg laying spot.

The size of food should be about the size of between the gecko’s eyes, you can go slightly bigger but this is the best way to judge the size. Crickets are hardy, cheap and nutritious.  Others feed mealworms, silkworms, and moths. They don’t seem to pay much attention to slow moving prey, quick moving prey like crickets catch their eyes immediately though. To get the maximum nutritional value out of the crickets, gut load them with a high protein and high calcium diet of some sort. Some people use vegetables, I use a premixed “Cricket Diet” I get from my cricket supplier, but it can be purchased at most pet stores. They should be dusted at least every other day with calcium powder, such as “Rep-Cal” or “Miner-All”, “Herptivite”. There are also mixes called “cricket dust” these would also work. Chlorine must be removed from the water, this is because reptiles can not get rid of toxins the way we do so over time your gecko can get a toxic amount of chlorine in its system. For this you can use an aquarium de-chlorinator or one specialized for reptile use.

Keep in mind this is just basic care, and should not be your only source of information.